Atos Basebar

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Atos Basebar

Postby nev » Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:17 pm

During the coming week I'll be helping to fix an Atos Basebar - its a circa 2004 one before they went through the (two?) beefing-ups to stop the two halves separating.

This one looks like it needs to be rejoined on the right, i.e. the side with the integral channel for the flap cord.

Does anyone know what the cord channel looks like, e.g.
..Is it a simple semi-circular groove in each half?
..Does it have an embedded sheath that is in-layed into the basebar?

The reason for asking is the concern that squirting resin into the crack (quite narrow currently, it hasn't separated, just a crack) it might find its way into the cord channel and render the basebar useless!

I'll be recommending a wrap-around of carbon cloth to help stop it coming apart again; separation anywhere near the pip pin area looks like something to avoid to me! (the crack is on the front of the basebar from approx the cleat to just before the basebar curves vertical)

Tim, I think you have Pauls broken basebar? Chris, I recall you saw a pile of the early ones at AIR?

Thanks in advance.....
Nev
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby chasleton » Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:42 pm

Pack tube with wax. Then when finished curing flush out with boiling water.
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby nev » Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:30 am

You and your wax (no videos please! :) )

Yeah, that could work, but one cavity not filled and its goodbye basebar.I was thinking a close fitting PTFE tube inserted may do the job

.....still be good to hear about the construction if anyone knows.....
Nev
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby Johnnybravo » Sat Mar 15, 2014 12:35 pm

Nev,
I know that there is a black flexible plastic tube about 6mm OD and about 4.5mm ID, in the right upright/downtube. I have just looked at a broken upright/downtube, and I was able to pull a short length out to measure it.
I am almost certain that the same type of plastic tube is in the bottom bar.
Regards,
John.
JohnB

A-I-R Atos VR/WW Sport 2 (155)/BMW R1150R.
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby Johnnybravo » Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:17 pm

Nev,
The one I have is 2006, and therefore may not be relevant, to your case?
John.
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A-I-R Atos VR/WW Sport 2 (155)/BMW R1150R.
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby nev » Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:32 pm

Thanks for the feedback John.

The basebar is from Atos V, delivered into the Uk January 2004.

I'm quite confident there will be a sheath inside like on yours.......thinking about it, Felix would be mad not too don't you think?
Nev
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby chasleton » Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:43 pm

I could stick my ear camera down the cleat hole and have a look
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby nev » Mon Mar 17, 2014 4:16 pm

LOL!

As it happens, I took a closer look at my (2005) basebar at where the rope outlet near the cleat; mine is wearing slightly, and you can clearly see the sheath poking its head out........
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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby remmoore » Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:37 am

If you're simply repairing a seam crack in the basebar, you don't have to worry about the flap cord sleeve. Sand the excess resin off of the area to be repaired, then wrap twice with resin-coated carbon fiber. Use electrical tape to temporarily tighten the carbon fiber around the repair until it's cured. Remove the tape and sand/buff out any imperfections in the hardened resin. If there's any remaining imperfections re-sand and brush on a final coat of resin for a smooth finish.

Easily done, even for the CF novice.

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Re: Atos Basebar

Postby nev » Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:47 am

Thanks RM, that describes pretty much what we did a few days ago.

Luckily the carbon cloth 'gives' nicely for the gentle curves of the basebar (i.e. analogous to the issue of gift wrapping a bannna!).

The corner with the 90 degree change of direction required a 'carbon tow' bandage as clearly cloth would never get around a curve of 1" radius. Over the years I've found my spool of carbon tow as useful as carbon cloth, especially for small/incricate work.

p.s. UK supply of Resin...
Quite a few of us used to use the "Ampreg 22" from SP systems, based on the Isle of Wight.
SP systems has now been taken over by a bigger/worldwide company called Gurit - the giveaway is Gurit now market Ampreg 22!
However, they no longer do the 1kg Blister packs of Ampreg, so more recently I've been using their 'general purpose' SP106 resin which appears to be working fine (1kg pack available)
Only 2 speeds, fast & slow; fast says 1hr working time, which when mixed seemed to equate to about 10 minutes pot life before it starts getting gloopy and unusable (at room temp, say 18~20 degrees C).
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